Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Trends of Timeless Elegance
Paris Men’s Fashion Week recently wrapped up, leaving the fashion world buzzing with insights and inspirations drawn from the myriad of collections showcased. Two clear messages echoed throughout the event: the importance of dressing sharply and the emphasis on creating garments meant to endure. Designers took the opportunity to explore these themes, weaving together aesthetics that are not only stylish but also built to last.
The Dominance of the Coat
One of the standout items of the season was undoubtedly the coat. Featured prominently across collections, it served as a statement piece—long, tailored, and undeniably eye-catching. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian’s final show after a remarkable 37-year tenure was epitomized by a striking dark coat crafted from glossy crocodile leather. This piece encapsulated a luxurious yet timeless style, perfectly aligned with the overarching theme of lasting fashion.
Not far behind, Junya Watanabe also placed coats at the forefront of his presentation. His collection featured classic camel and navy styles adorned with sportier elements, such as bomber backs and down-jacket quilting, merging formal outerwear with a contemporary edge. This playful mix redefined traditional pieces, allowing for a fresh perspective on winter wear.
Redefining Tailoring
As the week progressed, it became evident that many designers were innovating classic suits and jackets by altering their silhouettes. At Sacai, designer Chitose Abe introduced exciting new shapes by layering additional panels and pockets onto traditional cuts. These enhancements reflected a creative approach to tailoring, pushing boundaries while ensuring wearability.
In contrast, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus invited the audience into a realm of transformative tailoring. Her reimagined black suits featured unconventional lapels and hems, evolving into bright white designs that shifted the mood of the collection from somber to vivacious. Despite the avant-garde styling—complete with wigs and masks—the foundation of her pieces remained firmly rooted in classic tailoring.
Keeping It Simple: Focus on Construction
While many collections leaned heavily toward formalwear, a trend of restraint on the surface emerged, showcasing intricate craftsmanship in the cuts and constructions of garments. Kiko Kostadinov moved away from overt decorations, opting instead for coats and jackets that showcased clean lines and thoughtful draping, often rendered in muted colors. This conscious design choice highlighted the artistry of tailoring, where subtle details—such as hidden buttons and concealed hardware—allowed the elegance of the silhouette to shine.
Balancing Formality with Playfulness
Amidst the formality, some designers introduced a playful twist to traditional eveningwear. Jacquemus reinterpreted tuxedo styles with a cheeky, retro vibe, presenting a lighter take on black-tie attire that appealed to a younger audience. The setting of his show at the Picasso Museum amplified the atmosphere, drawing a star-studded crowd that further emphasized the theatrical aspect of men’s tailoring in the contemporary fashion landscape.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi took this concept to new levels, staging his collection in an underground car park complete with loud techno music and an “Alien” theme. His innovative mix of sharp coats, dark tailoring, and body-hugging pieces created a juxtaposition of everyday wear that still aimed to spark intrigue and challenge norms.
A Call to Slow Down
In a fast-paced fashion industry, several moments of reflection stood out during the week. At Hermès, Nichanian’s poignant farewell included revisiting designs first crafted decades ago, emphasizing that true style transcends time. Her message was simple yet profound: “Slow down.” This mantra was not merely a personal note of departure but resonated across the industry, encouraging a thoughtful approach to fashion that prioritizes longevity over fleeting trends.
Similarly, White Mountaineering’s Aizawa treated his final presentation as a retrospective, showcasing technical outerwear and meticulous patterns that celebrated a 20-year journey in fashion. This reflective moment served as a powerful reminder of the importance of depth and intentionality within collections.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week has once again demonstrated that clothing can be both a bold statement and a lasting investment, as designers explore the intricate balance between modernity and tradition, aesthetic appeal and wearability. The resonating themes of sharp dressing and durable designs will undoubtedly shape the seasons ahead, paving the way for a more sustainable future in fashion.
