What to Expect from the New Restaurant by Burger Burger Founder Mimi Gilmour-Buckley
A Shaky Start
My evening began with high hopes but quickly took a turn. Arriving at a trendy new restaurant to try a new chef, I was greeted by a less-than-welcoming maitre d’. His bright lighting made it feel like I was under a spotlight, not exactly flattering for any human, let alone one looking to enjoy a meal. After requesting to be moved to a dimmer corner—and receiving no timely assistance—I found myself faced with the socially complicated decision of getting up and leaving rather than risking an awkward dinner with no guidance on the menu.
The Precursors to Mama
With my friend by my side and the clock ticking, I hastily searched for alternative dining options on a Sunday night. Fortunately, I recalled the glowing recommendations for the new restaurant, Mama, located in Newmarket. After a couple of failed calls to the restaurant, I finally reached someone who sounded enthusiastic and welcoming, making the decision to jump into an Uber easy.
Arriving at Mama
Coming into Mama felt like a breath of fresh air. Unlike the previous place, this restaurant radiated positivity. The ambiance was warm and inviting, with cheerful waitstaff and a lovely courtyard illuminated by soft festoon lights. A charming touch was the collage of handwritten postcards dedicated to Gilmour-Buckley’s mother, for whom the restaurant is named. Memories of her previous venture, Burger Burger, flooded back, especially from times when I escaped to grab a quick bite while my wife was busy nearby.
A Restaurant Experience
Mama is much more than a casual eatery—it’s a proper restaurant. As someone who often gets asked where to eat in Newmarket, I was thrilled to finally have a suggestion beyond the common spots.
The Menu
Mama boasts an appealing and beautifully curated menu, blessed with a lively atmosphere and an extensive Italian wine list. Each option comes with helpful descriptors, making choices easier. It was a bold stroke to focus entirely on Italian wines, but it added a delightful touch to the experience.
Culinary Delights
The food was outstanding. One dish that particularly caught my attention was the two vinegary prawns, lightly cured but incredibly flavorful. The panzanella salad stood out due to its generous helping of herbs, including the often-overlooked curly parsley, accompanying the typical soaked bread and tomatoes.
As the mains arrived, the experience intensified. A whimsical 30-layer lasagne took the spotlight. Served in a narrow horizontal slice, it promised an explosion of flavors, reminiscent of the beloved meaty offerings from Burger Burger, but with a new twist.
Curiosity piqued, I probed the waiter about the composition of the meat. The blend included pork, wagyu beef, and chicken liver, each playing a significant role in the rich flavor profile.
Perfect Pairings
When it came time for pizza, my expectations were low, though I quickly had to revise those thoughts. The sobrasada pizza boasted a beautifully browned, bubbly base paired with spicy nduja, fresh mozzarella, and sweet red capsicum, delivering a satisfying combination that left me wanting more.
We also indulged in a bright asparagus risotto topped with pan-fried snapper fillets. It reminded me of a dish that’s been a staple at Prego, but Mama’s version was a notable bargain at almost half the price.
The Experience Overall
While I was all set to proclaim Mama an excellent addition to the Newmarket dining scene, a late, trusted tip did mention dining experiences that could have been better—both in terms of food and service. That said, with Mimi Gilmour-Buckley at the helm, it’s clear any hiccups are bound to be ironed out quickly.
Restaurant Details
Contact:
Osborne Lane, 3b York St, Newmarket
(09) 524 2859
mamaresto.co
Sample Menu Items
- Salt and Vinegar Prawns: $16
- Panzanella: $22
- Sobrasada Pizza: $26
- Lasagne: $30
- Risotto with Snapper: $38
Review Score
- 0-7: Steer clear.
- 8-12: Disappointing, give it a miss.
- 13-15: Good, give it a go.
- 16-18: Great, plan a visit.
- 19-20: Outstanding, don’t delay.
According to dining editor Jesse Mulligan.
