Review at a Glance: ★★★☆☆
The Carbone Experience
If you’ve ever thought about which mob-movie character to embody for an evening out, Carbone is the perfect restaurant for you. The dining experience here isn’t just about the food; it’s about the persona you adopt. Think Ray Liotta in Casino, Joe Pesci in Goodfellas, or Carmela Soprano. The staff implores you to “embrace it,” suggesting that your role in this theatrical production is just as significant as the meal itself. This sets the tone: diners are not merely customers but participants in an immersive narrative.
Location and Ambience
Located in the revamped American Embassy on Grosvenor Square, now dubbed the Chancery Premier Inn, Carbone brings a New York flair to London. The restaurant exudes an overwhelming charm, blending nostalgia with a slightly surreal vibe. Upon entering, you’re greeted by a striking red leather door that feels like it could belong to a film set. The interior is a dazzling display of red velvet, chequered marble, and low-lit jazz club lamps, reminiscent of a bygone era—a striking location that embodies the glamour of the Rat Pack.
However, it’s hard to miss the eccentricities, like the oversized menus that might as well come with crayons for sketching dinner plans. With such a visually theatrical space, one might expect to see Frank Sinatra himself propped up at the bar, drinks in hand.
The Celebrity Factor
Carbone has cultivated a reputation for celebrity clientele, making it a hotspot for the rich and famous. During a recent visit, notable figures like Victoria Beckham and her family were dining nearby. It’s an easy place for celebrities to blend in, yet the oversized, extravagant menus—almost like something from a comedy sketch—serve as an unusual barrier for any would-be peering eyes. The dining atmosphere feels like a curated show, where the diners are just as likely to be performers as the staff.
The Menu: A Culinary High-wire Act
While the ambience might dazzle, the menu presents a more complicated narrative. Prices are steep; certain dishes approach the realm of the absurd. You’ll find a £98 lasagne and lamb chops ringing in at £77, with wines peeking over the £100 mark. Here, the New York-Italian cuisine fuses tradition with extravagance.
Yet, the taste experience varies. The Star attraction, the spicy rigatoni vodka, may have its defenders, but to some, it feels repetitive and akin to childhood comfort food. The scallops rosmarino, however, did impress; they were plump and sweet, covered in a delicate layer of lardo. The Potato Louie side dish caught the eye—not just because of its price but for its savory combination of garlic and duck fat.
On the flip side, the lobster ravioli lacked character, while the veal masala left patrons baffled by its muted flavor profile. Was it the pandemic all over again, or just uninspired cooking?
Service and Atmosphere
Amidst the culinary highs and lows, service deserves a mention. Expectations run high for a restaurant with such a reputation, yet service can be hit or miss. On one occasion, our waiter Sunny sought to charm and engage, but the inconsistencies made the experience feel more like a scripted performance than genuine hospitality.
In the end, Carbone thrives on its ability to impress with ambiance, engaging theatrics, and celebrity sightings. But when the murmurs of discontent start creeping in, especially about the menu’s lack of flavor, it turns into a show that feels like it’s leaning more on style than substance.
Worth the Price?
The allure of glamour, worn like a fine garment, almost obscures the reality of the culinary offerings. Guests may find themselves questioning the steep bill for what amounts to an experience rather than a meal, often longing for more authentic dining solutions elsewhere in the city, such as the Dover, which offers more flavor at half the price.
Final Note
Dining at Carbone eclectically mixes glitz and ennui. One may not depart incensed or blissfully joyful, but rather with a muted sense of indifference, reminiscent of a De Niro shrug. With a price tag hovering around £450 for two, this restaurant undoubtedly invites guests on a journey, albeit one strewn with highs, lows, and more than a sprinkle of theatricality.
Location: 30 Grosvenor Square, W1K
Estimated Meal for Two: About £450
Website: carbonelondon.com
